Day 5: Ruta 40 – Horseback riding, Hot springs and “Dangerously” Beautiful Views of Rio Grande.

A day of horse therapy.

After our day yesterday, I’m feeling incredibly inspired—horseback riding, hot springs, and stunning views. Argentina is proving to be not just an adventure, but an education. I speak only a little Spanish, but that hasn’t stopped me from diving into the culture and learning about this beautiful country.

We started the day with what I can only describe as “horse meditation.” Emi and I both agree that it’s been our favorite part of the trip so far. After a quick coffee and snack, we met a man along the highway who guided us to the ranch where we began our ride. Normally, there’s a guide, but because we booked last minute through Johnny, we ended up riding with the owner of the horses. He barely spoke, and honestly, it was perfect. It gave me time to think, reflect, and connect with my horse. I had to trust this incredible animal as she carried me up and down hills, across rough terrain, and through water.

I’ve been horseback riding a handful of times in Manitoba, but nothing like this. My horse was incredible—so strong and sure-footed, climbing uphill over rocky, unstable surfaces, and then smoothly descending through mud and clay. I could literally feel her muscles contracting and relaxing beneath me. At one point, we stopped for a drink—both us and the horses. I felt a little guilty seeing how sweaty she was, wondering if I had contributed to her exhaustion, but I also knew horses love to work.

Emi, on the other hand, had a more temperamental horse and ended up swapping with our guide. Watching him ride was amazing—he looked so natural. As we neared the end of our ride, Emi asked if he could run with the horse. Off he went. Later, he told me it was a bit painful but totally worth it.

One of the things we wanted to check off our bucket list in Argentina was trying chivo (goat). Trigger warning: If you’re squeamish or have strong beliefs about not killing animals for food, feel free to skip this part.

Our horseback riding guide raises goats with his family, and after the ride, we met them—a lovely elderly couple. Naturally, we asked if we could buy some chivo. Emi was thrilled because it brought back childhood memories. In Argentina, when you purchase chivo for an asado (a traditional BBQ), you typically go out into the pasture, choose your goat, and watch as it’s killed in the most humane way possible to ensure good meat quality and health. While we didn’t get to experience that part, as our guide had butchered one the day before, he offered us a beautiful leg of goat. He even let us name the price, and we happily bought it.

It’s been difficult finding cultural information about chivo and the traditions surrounding its preparation, so if anyone has reliable sources, please share them in the comments!

After securing our goat leg, we went to buy ice to keep it fresh and started looking for a place to stay for the night. The next stop on our journey is Zapala, a bigger town beyond what everyone warns is the roughest stretch of road. We decided to rest for the night before tackling it.

We stumbled across a place called Puente Sobre Río Grande. It’s a stunning spot, but with no barriers to the steep drop-offs, it’s definitely a place to be careful. Emi, of course, chose the most adrenaline-filled option—doing a handstand on our SUV in the middle of the bridge, over a massive drop!

 

A day of horse therapy.
Handstand on Rio Grande

After that, we headed to some natural hot springs I’d seen on the map earlier. After the horseback ride, my hips felt super open, and I couldn’t wait to soak in the healing waters. It was magical. The water looked like mud, heated naturally by the earth, and filled with minerals. Between hot dips, Emi and I did cold plunges to reduce inflammation from all the driving. I felt like a new woman—my skin was soft, and my mind was clear.

If you ever visit, the place is literally called “Therma Natural” on Google Maps. They have a restaurant, showers, and even a campsite if you want to stay longer.

 

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