Chos Malal is a charming little town, though staying here for three days wasn’t part of our original plan. The infamous stretch of Ruta 40 just before Zapala is well-known in blogs and vlogs for its rough terrain, with many advising 4×4 vehicles and knowing how to change a tire. Fortunately, we were driving a Nissan Xterra borrowed from a good friend of Emi’s, a seasoned mountaineer familiar with rugged terrain. After a routine check in Mendoza, everything seemed in perfect shape: suspension, brakes, tires, and fluids were all good to go.
When we finally hit the notorious section of Ruta 40, it wasn’t nearly as bad as we’d been led to believe. The road felt more like a series of small bumps, like road moguls, but nothing we couldn’t handle. After the bumpy ride, we pulled into Chos Malal for a quick stop to refuel and grab some food. As we were driving down a quiet street, something didn’t feel right. I heard a strange noise, and Emi noticed the truck wasn’t handling well. When I peeked out the window, I saw the front tire hanging on by a thread!
We slowly rolled to the side of the road and realized that the rugged road had shaken loose several lug nuts, with the front tire on the verge of coming off completely. It could’ve been much worse if we hadn’t stopped when we did.
After attempting to fix the problem ourselves, we jacked up the truck and, before we could ask for help, a local pointed us toward a mechanic. Emi walked over, and though it was siesta time (2 PM), the shop owner, mid-bite of a sandwich, came out to take a look. After some inspection, we rolled the truck over to his shop.
The mechanic discovered that not only did we need new lug nuts, but the area around the tire had been damaged. He offered to customize some parts, which seemed to have been the issue in the first place. In Argentina, getting specific parts shipped can be tough due to taxes and the lack of services like Amazon, unlike back in Canada where everything is readily available.
With our truck out of commission for the night, we found a cute spot to stay: “La Casita”. This place had everything we needed— a beautiful kitchen, cozy common areas, a private room, and a stunning outdoor asado pit. We settled in, cracked open a beer, and prepared a dinner of local goat (chivo) we’d been saving. The process of preparing a proper asado is slow and intentional, taking about three hours to cook over embers made from dry, coal-like wood. It’s a ritual that honors the animal, and the result was an incredibly tender, flavorful meal.
We initially thought we’d stay in Chos Malal for just one night. But as things go in small-town Argentina, our truck needed more time. The owners of La Casita were wonderful, letting us extend our stay night by night as we waited for the repairs. We made the best of it, enjoying the peaceful town and cooking up some delicious dinners.
By the third night, we finally got our truck back around 9 PM. Though we were excited to get back on the road, we had to wait until morning to set off. The total cost for the repairs? Just $300. Given how much work had been done, it was a pleasant surprise compared to what it would’ve cost back home.
Now, with our trusty Xterra back in shape and snacks prepped for the road, we’re ready to make up for lost time and continue our journey towards Bariloche. It’s been an unexpected adventure, but one filled with great food, new friends, and the kindness of strangers.
